Thursday, 23 January, 2025
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Record K2 Winter Ascent: Climbers Boost Nepal's Global Image



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Ballav Dahal

Even when the entire economic and social activities have remained almost paralysed globally ever since the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic last year, Nepal has now been highlighted internationally as home to most of the world's highest mountains as well as great mountaineers.
Ten Nepali climbers have enhanced the country's global reputation after creating a new record on K2. The 8,611-metre peak is the world's second tallest mountain. They made it to the summit of the perilous peak on January 16 this year. They were among some 60 climbers associated with different expeditions to reach the Karakoram region for scaling K2 this winter.

Collaborative Effort
Even though the Nepali mountaineers belonged to various expeditions, they made a collaborative effort to climb the peak. Legendary mountaineer Nirmal Purja, also known as "Nimsdai", was leading one expedition while another famous climber Mingma Gyalje Sherpa was the leader of another team. Purja's team had six members and the one belonging to Mingma Gyalje had three. Sona Sherpa from another expedition operated by Seven Summit Treks was also included in the historic joint team of Nepalis.
Previously, the Nepali climbers had not planned to form any separate team. When Purja and Mingma Gyalje met at 7,000 metres of the peak, they discussed the matter and came up with an idea of forming a new team of Nepalis to work together. Then, they developed a strategy to accomplish the mission.
Mingma David Sherpa, Gelje Sherpa, Sona Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, and Dawa Tenzing Sherpa were other members of the team.
To avoid unnecessary competition among the team members, Purja put up a proposal that everyone had to wait for just 10 metres below K2's summit. They agreed to gather together there before moving towards the summit by singing Nepal's national anthem. Thus, the team was able to achieve success.
All the members of the team have now become heroes in the world's mountaineering community. This is a testimony to the fact that Nepali climbers are flexible enough to work together and capable of taking up any challenge. It is certainly a matter of great pride for Nepal and Nepalis.
K2 was the only above the 8,000-metre tall peak that was never conquered in winter before. So, the record attempt has been very important to the whole mountaineering circle across the world.
Lying on the Pakistan side of the Karakoram range, K2 is recognised as the 'Savage Mountain' as it is technically one of the world's most difficult and challenging mountains. The weather on this mountain is so adverse that winds can often blow at more than 200 kilometres per hour and the temperature drops to -60 degree Celsius.
As someone who set a new record on the world's mountaineering by climbing all the 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in six months and six days in 2019, Purja deserves the credit for making the team's dream come true. Other members are also equally experienced and dedicated.

Impossible Becomes Possible
Upon reaching the summit, Purja, 38, had written on Twitter: "The impossible is made possible! K2 winter history made for mankind, history made for Nepal."
He further wrote from K2 base camp: "All other 13 peaks above 8,000 metres were climbed in winter by the international climbing community. So, it would be a great feat for the Nepali climbing community to make history."
He added that as a team, they felt proud and honoured. "I think we have sent a clear message to the world that if we unite, nothing is impossible."
Since the first winter attempt on K2 in 1987, very few winter expeditions have been made. But none of them reached above 7,350m of the mountain. Only about 450 climbers have climbed the peak even in summer after the maiden ascent in 1954. But more than 4,000 climbers have reached the summit of the world's highest peak, Mt. Sagarmatha since the first human ascent in 1953. K2 is one of the most dangerous peaks in the world. The mountain has the second-highest fatality rate after Mt. Annapurna I (8,091m). One out of four climbers scaling K2 never returns.
With the creation of history by the dedicated Nepali climbers on K2, Nepal has received prominent media coverage worldwide. Needless to say, the event has helped in the promotion of Nepal and its hardworking and responsible and highly skilled mountain guides and other human resources required for mountaineering.

Promise to Help Climbers
Meanwhile, Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli honoured the team amidst a ceremony organised at his official residence at Baluwatar on January 26. He commended the climbers for boosting Nepal's reputation in the international arena by making it to the summit of K2 in winter.
Extending his congratulations to the team members, the Prime Minister said, "I would like to honour your exemplary efforts and great courage. Your historic feat on K2 will inspire many people in Nepal and around the world."
He added that the team was able to make an extraordinary success because of their stamina, bravery and perseverance.
He also pledged government support to the initiatives like the one taken by the K2 team. "The government will work out plans to recognise the brave mountaineers."

A Hero's Welcome
Earlier on the same day, the team members received a hero's welcome on their return home at the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) on January 26. A lot of mountaineers, friends, well-wishers and family members gathered at the airport to greet the mountaineers with garlands and bouquets while a police band played tunes. The Department of Tourism (DoT), Nepal Tourism Board (NTB), Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and several other tourism-related associations organised the gathering to welcome the climbers. As part of felicitation, they were also taken around the city in open trucks.
Meanwhile, upon their return to Islamabad from K2 on January 18, the Pakistani government felicitated the Nepali team for making history by climbing the peak in winter.
Pakistan's Foreign Office spokesperson Zahid Hafeez Chaudhri called the expedition as "one of the most coveted achievements in mountaineering." He also termed Pakistan as the ultimate destination for climbing.
"At a time when the global tourism industry has been in the doldrums due to the coronavirus pandemic and political instability, our successful ascent of K2 has drawn the world's attention towards Nepal," Mingma David Sherpa told The Rising Nepal.
The 31-year-old is the youngest person in the world to climb all the 14 peaks taller than 8,000 metres. His journey to 8,000-metre mountains began in 2010 when he climbed Mt. Sagarmatha. Among 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, he scaled eight with Purja in 2019.
There is no denying the fact that the K2 winter ascent marks another remarkable accomplishment for Nepali climbers. For decades, they worked as porters and guides for foreign climbers mountaineers, but they are now setting their records and running expeditions on the highest peaks. This indicates that the social and economic status of Nepali climbers has improved considerably.
"I feel that our successful attempt on K2 in winter is very important. This feat is even more remarkable than my ascent of all the 14 peaks above 8,000 metres," he said.
Despite this, the tendency of Nepali mountaineers to go abroad for making a living and staying there permanently has continued. This is mainly due to lack of regular sources of income for them.
"A lot of renowned Nepali climbers are still forced to stay abroad because of the financial factor," he said.
Recognising their unparalleled achievements, several developed nations like the United States of America (USA) offer a visa as well as a permanent residency to them.

Fund for Mountaineers
The renowned climber and rescue crew called for setting up a fund to support the mountaineers and their family. "We have been lobbying hard with the government for establishing such a fund. The government needs to allocate at least 10 per cent of the revenue collected from mountaineering for this purpose," he said.
Since the emergence of the existing global public health crisis, all the mountaineers and other tourism workers have been unemployed. "Taking this into serious consideration, the government must take necessary steps immediately in this regard. This will also help retain the mountaineers within the country," he said.
With her numerous mountains, including eight of the world's 14 peaks above 8,000-metre, Nepal is undoubtedly an important destination for mountaineering, trekking and many other adventure water sports like rafting, canyoning and kayaking. Prior to the outbreak of the coronavirus contagion, the country used to welcome a large number of adventurers and other nature lovers every year. Tourism has now become among the most affected businesses worldwide, with an unprecedented fall in the number of international visitors in 2020.

Policy Shift Necessary
Being mostly a mountainous nation, Nepal holds unlimited potential for mountain tourism. In terms of extreme high-altitude adventure sporting activities, including climbing, alpine flying and skiing, Nepal does not have to compete with any other destinations worldwide. But the country has failed to utilise such unrivalled resources for economic development. What is lacking is a vision and willpower.
"We can set more new records on mountaineering and other adventure sports activities. For this, there should be a drastic policy shift. Without simplifying the prevalent policies and procedures, our mountain tourism will not flourish as anticipated," he observed.
According to him, the rules concerning the garbage management in the mountains and the permit system must be revised at the earliest. "A change in such outdated rules and policies is sure to have a positive impact on our mountain tourism soon."
He also suggested that the mountains should be cleaned up regularly instead of launching a campaign in a gap of some years. "We can always keep our mountains neat and clean by mobilising our mountain guides," he said.
Ensuring safety mountaineers in the mountain region is the key to enticing many more adventure seekers. The country will not have to market our mountain tourism once we are capable of stepping up measures to make sure that our mountains are safe for climbers.

No Need for Marketing
"There should be a good rescue system with a permanent team in place so as to take climbers as well as others into confidence. The responsibility of carrying out rescue operations should not be given to the private sector. The government itself should take up this," he said.
The development of a vaccine against COVID-19 and its launch in many countries, including Nepal, has brought a shimmer of hope among the global populace. Despite lockdowns and other restrictions imposed by a large number of nations to contain the transmission of the deadly virus disease, most economic and social activities have started resuming gradually. Nepal is likely to see many foreign expeditions to different peaks in the upcoming spring. Other tourists are also eager to visit this country to experience cultural diversity and great hospitality of the friendly and ever-smiling people.

(Dahal, deputy executive editor at TRN, writes on tourism and mountaineering.
ballav.dahal@gmail.com)